I have to be honest. We had hardwood floor in the kitchen and dining room of our old house, and we did not do a good job with those floors. We used harsh floor cleaners and waxy polishes, without thinking twice. After the first year, they never looked good again. They were also a softer oak floor (not laminate though), and we raised 3 dogs on those floors. So, you can imagine what they looked like when we moved out after 8 years!

That's exactly why I vowed to take extra special care of our new hardwood floors. I was only going to use "the best" cleaning products on them, and I would try to keep the dog running in the house to a minimum -- in order to prevent dog claw marks.

Here's my review of the Shark steam mop, compared to the Bona Spray Mop, plus my findings on the best liquid hardwood floor cleaner...

To start with, I had to find the best way to clean these amazing looking hardwood floors that we have.

So I asked around. First, I asked a General Contractor friend of ours, and then a few store clerks here and there. But no one had a definitive answer for me regarding how to safely and effectively clean hardwood floors.

I decided to go to a local hardwood flooring store and ask for their opinion.

Going in, I knew that I would take their advice with a grain of salt, because I figured they would try to sell me whatever hardwood floor cleaner they sold. (And they did try.) But I'm the world's biggest skeptic, and I have to do some research and see for myself before I'll try anything new.

What The Hardwood Floor Expert Recommended

I spoke with a sales rep at the hardwood flooring store who also happened to have 3 dogs (I liked that she and I had that in common), and the entire first floor of her home consisted of hardwood flooring (like mine). 

Fortunately or unfortunately, she only had one product to recommend. And that was (obviously) a product that they sold: Bona hardwood floor cleaner. But I tried to keep an open mind. If it's truly the best hardwood floor cleaner, then that's probably why they only sell it, rather than selling a number of different hardwood floor cleaners, right?

I listened to her reasons why Bona is so great for hardwood floors:

• It won't dull your floors.
• It doesn't leave any residue.
• It's environmentally-friendly.
• It's the best and safest cleaner for your hardwood floors.

Then I mentioned to her my desire to have a spray mop or steam mop do most of the work for me, rather than having to spray this Bona cleaner on the spots as needed -- followed by mopping the floor with a soft cloth (or a dry mop with a soft cloth placed on the head).

She mentioned that Bona also sells a floor duster (similar to the Swiffer dry mop), but she honestly felt that you didn't need to buy that to do the job. She said that simply using a soft cloth would suffice. And if I already had a dry Swiffer-type mop with a soft cloth placed on the head, that would work too.

I had a Swiffer dry mop, so I decided to buy a small bottle of the Bona hardwood floor cleaner and try that with my Swiffer. I placed a soft microfiber cloth over the Swiffer's mop head.

Oh, and before I left the flooring store, I asked her about steam mops (like the ever-popular Shark steam mop). She immediately turned up her nose. Her biggest concern was using water (or steam) on hardwood floors. She said it opens up the possibility of getting too much moisture in between the floor boards, and you never want to do that with hardwood flooring. She begged me to stay away from steam mops. (But I had to see for myself, so eventually, I did try one.)

Bona's mission is "Bringing out the Best in Hardwood Floors." We have been the world leader in hardwood floor finishing and floor care for over 90 years, combining luxury and convenience through a world-class product offering, designed specifically for you and your floors.  Source

Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner

From the first time I tried the Bona hardwood floor cleaner, I loved it!

It truly picked up dirt, mud (paw prints after playing in a muddy yard) and dust better than my Swiffer dry mop alone. The Bona cleaner also didn't smear the dirt and mud on the floor, it dried really quickly, and it left no streaking whatsoever.

So that was my method of cleaning hardwood floors for several weeks.

Eventually, my arm began to tire of this 2-step process: spray the spots on the floor that needed cleaning, and then use the lightweight Swiffer dry mop to "scrub" the dirt away.

The biggest problem is the fact that the pole of the original Swiffer mop is not heavy-duty enough to withstand the pressure needed to wipe away anything other than light dust. For muddy spots, I like to give it a little extra elbow grease, and the Swiffer dry mop simply doesn't work well for that.

So I began my search for a spray mop type of contraption. I knew that Bona had their own dry mop that might possibly be better than Swiffer's lightweight one, but that would be my last resort.

What I really wanted was an all-in-one unit that would hold the liquid, do the spraying, and do the mopping -- all at one time.

My Experience With The Shark Steam Mop

First, I tried the ever-popular Shark steam mop. The one I got was the newest, steam pocket mop. I really liked the concept, and was thrilled to have found an all-in-one unit.

Unfortunately, the results were dismal the very first tiem I used it. It left streaks all over my hardwood floors!

Keep in mind, with the Shark you don't use "cleaners" per se, you simply use water. The water heats up inside and you pump it a few times to create the steam, while mopping your floors at the same time.

I also wasn't crazy about the fact that I had a long electrical cord (that I could trip on) following me around as I cleaned the floors. And the Shark steam mop was kind of heavy too. Overall, it seemed bulky and awkward to me. Those things were not deal-breakers for me though.

The deal-breaker was simply the fact that I couldn't live with all the streaks left behind after using the Shark steam mop. And this was when I used a brand new mop pad (the one that comes with the mop).

After seeing how well the Bona hardwood floor cleaner alone had truly "cleaned" my hardwood floors and left no streaks, I came to the conclusion that water alone (or steam) probably just won't cut it. I need a more effective method for cleaning the floors.

So I decided to return the Shark and try to find a way to use the Bona hardwood floor cleaner inside a spray mop instead. (To be honest, you may be able to do this with the Shark, but they only mention using water with it and there was really nothing else that I liked about this mop, so I returned it quite hastily before finding out.)

My Experience With The Bona Spray Mop

Quite by accident, I noticed that a brand new Bona spray mop was available.

It's not the Bona dry mop that I was used to seeing. By the way, the reason I didn't jump to buy Bona's dry mop was the fact that the pole itself didn't look much sturdier than the Swiffer dry mop's pole. And that's ultimately what I was after: 

• a heavier-duty mop
• that did the job effectively
• was lightweight
• and would hold up over time

So when I saw the Bona spray mop, I thought "Gosh, could this be the answer? I'll try it, and if not then I'll just return it."

The Bona Spray mop was the answer to my prayers!

The first time I tried it, I wanted to go back and buy another one -- just so I would never be without a Bona spray mop should the first one ever break on me. (But I didn't do that.)

Here's why I like the Bona spray mop so well:

• I don't know if they claim that it's ergonomic, or if you could even build a mop that is ergonomic, but I feel like this mop is ergonomic. Meaning, it just feels comfortable in my hand -- from the spray trigger to the shape of the handle, it's a natural fit.
   
• It's very lightweight -- even with a full cartridge of Bona hardwood floor cleaner in it. My arm  never gets tired, like it does when I'm using the Swiffer dry mop for dusting the hardwood floors before each cleaning.
   
• It's incredibly sturdy. Nothing bends or "gives", nothing cracks or creaks. The entire thing seems solidly built. This allows you to give the really dirty spots a little more elbow grease, without it feeling flimsy.
   
• The Bona cleaning pad itself isn't thick and plush, like you might think (and like the Shark steam mop pad is). Instead, it consists of very thin, tightly-weaved fibers, more like a terry-cloth pad, which I like because it seems to work better.
   
• The way the cleaning pad attaches to the Bona spray mop is much better than the way the Shark steam mop pad attaches. The Bona one stays firmly in place thanks to a long thin pieces of velcro. Whereas, the Shark's pad moves around loosely on the mop head.
   
• The width of the mop head itself is 10 inches, which without a doubt covers the widest surface of any wet or dry mops I've ever seen. This makes it easier to clean your entire hardwood floor (or to simply spot-clean) with fewer strokes required to get the job done.
   
• The mop pads are washable and reusable (as are the Shark's). I recommend buying an extra cleaning pad, so you can have one in the wash and still be able to clean your floors.
   
• You simply spray once and a fine mist of the Bona hardwood floor cleaner shoots out of the middle of the pole, at floor level, and covers a 180-degree range -- to the left, to the right, and straight ahead.
   
• You don't have to keep "pumping" the mop (or the handle of the mop) to get the liquid to dispense, like you have to do with the Shark steam mop to get the steam to come out.
   
• Each squirt seems like just the right amount, so it wipes up with one swipe of the mop pad. And each squirt is barely more than a fine mist, so it doesn't seep into your floor boards.
   
• The floors dry really fast. You do have to wait maybe a minute after spraying and then wiping -- otherwise, your feet will sort of stick to the floor and leave marks where you've just cleaned. But once it's dry, there's no tackiness or film at all.
   
• There is absolutely no streaking whatsoever. I was particularly afraid that it would be noticeable where I spot-cleaned, and where I didn't. But it's not evident at all where you started and stopped.
   
• Each cartridge of liquid cleaner seems to last a long time. With a dog, and a backyard that has lots of muddy spots, I've been using mine a lot. My first cartridge (before refilling it) lasted about 2 months of regular spot cleaning.
   
• The price is quite reasonable! At $39, the Bona spray mop is much cheaper than the $119 Shark steam mop.

Yes, The Liquid Cleaner Cartridges Are Refillable!

Now for the best part...

On first glance it appears that the cartridges of liquid Bona hardwood floor cleaner that work with the Bona spray mop are not refillable. But that's not true!

• Yes, they want you to believe that  -- so you'll buy more of the expensive refill cartridges again and again.

• And yes, they make it difficult to refill them (you have to use a screwdriver and a little bit of muscle).

• And yes, they only market the Bona spray mop as having "replaceable" cleaner cartridges, not refillable ones.

But this reminded me of all the other non-refillable products that manufacturers "trick" you into thinking they are refillable (like the Pledge Fabric Sweeper For Pet Hair), and there is almost always a way to make them reusable and/or refillable. So I knew there had to be a way to make these cartridges refillable.

Here's how:

Simply use a medium-sized flat head screwdriver to pry the lid off of the top of the cartridge itself. Try not to nick or bend the plastic too much, or it could cause the cartridge to start leaking. Refill the cartridge using a gallon-sized refill of Bona hardwood floor cleaner and a funnel.

 

Best Prices & Reviews Of Bona Products

I got my Bona spray mop at Bed, Bath & Beyond using one of their 20% off coupons. I used another 20% off coupon to buy another Bona microfiber mop head. And another one to buy a gallon refill of the hardwood floor cleaner.

I recently saw one-gallon refills of the Bona hardwood floor cleaner at Costco for a really good price. I think it was even less than the price you'd get if using a coupon at Bed, Bath & Beyond!

And, of course, you can find all of the Bona hardwood floor products at Amazon, as well. Whether you buy on Amazon or not, I encourage you to take the time to read the reviews of all the different Bona hardwood floor products there. Those are from people who've actually used the product.

Bona's hardwood floor cleaners and mops come highly recommended by others:

• Lou Manfredini On NBC's Today Show
• Momicillin Review Of Bona Spray Mop
• VIDEO: Swiffer Wet Jet vs Bona Spray Mop
• Bona Hardwood Floor Mop Review
  

Next on my list to try: Bona Hardwod Floor Refresher. It prolongs the shine on your hardwood floors and better protects them. (Here's a video.)

Unfortunately for some men, this evolutionary similarity has resulted in their backs (and other body parts) being covered with thick, coarse hair.

In some instances, back hair can be not only unsightly and uncomfortable, but it can also present health problems. Beyond causing itching and skin irritation, body odor can be an issue, as can infection from ingrown hairs.

Laser back hair removal is an FDA-approved method of safe hair removal that is a more permanent solution than the use of hair removal creams, waxing, electrolysis, and shaving.

TIP: It's been found that laser treatments are most effective with those who have dark hair and light skin.

 

 

The cost of laser hair removal varies, depending on a number of factors. For example, the density and thickness of the hair to be removed is one factor.

Clinics may have their billing structure set up in 15-minute segments or they may have a flat rate fee per session.

Some clinics charge per pulse of the laser which, in turn, is treating an area about the size of a dime.

In general, you can expect to pay somewhere between $600 and $900 per treatment for a back hair laser session, depending on what region of the country you're in.

What Are Laser Back Hair Removal Treatments Like?

During a laser hair removal session you may be required to wear goggles to protect your eyes from the light of the laser.

The laser will produce a slight burning sensation that is said to feel like the snap of a rubber band against the skin when the laser pulses.  Your laser technician may apply a cooling anesthetic cream to reduce the stinging sensation, though most people can tolerate the procedure without it.

There may be some odor as the singeing of hair produces a pungent smell.

This video shows a laser back hair removal session being done on a man. It almost looks relaxing, more like a massage. 

Other Ways To Remove Back Hair

The following video shows a man having his back hair removed by waxing. Overall, it looks pretty uncomfortable. More importantly, it does nothing to stop further growth of hair. Therefore, waxing is a process that would need to be repeated on a regular basis.

Even electrolysis for back hair removal can't match the laser when it comes to eliminating unwanted hair permanently. With electrolysis, each hair follicle is treated individually. It's a time-consuming and painful process. 

Laser Back Hair Removal For Men

If you're looking for a way to have your back hair removed permanently, back laser hair removal is definitely worth considering. It has been around for about 20 years now, and it's a proven safe way to take care of unwanted hair on various areas of a man's body.

With laser hair removal, you can treat a man's entire back in 5 sessions, on average -- with each treatment providing measurable results.

Most often, the only side effect experienced is a sunburn-like redness or rash that will pass in a day or so. On rare occasions, a permanent discoloring or spotting can develop. (Be sure to follow all directions as to the use of creams and ointments after your treatment to eliminate any unwanted side-effects.)

When choosing your clinic, always consider that their equipment should be sterile and facility should be clean and orderly. If possible, visit at least 2 different clinics, then choose the best one.

This prevents the root system of your grass from penetrating and growing to its fullest potential. It also prevents water from penetrating through to the roots when the rains fall.

The end result? Moisture runs off into the drainage ditch and your lawn misses out on the nourishment it needs to thrive and grow into a lush green lawn.
 

Compressed soil makes it difficult for earthworms to perform their jobs and therefore causes thatch to accumulate. Such a problem will continue to worsen unless something is done to loosen up the surface layer of soil so that the soil can access fresh air.  Source

Aerating your lawn means to provide air -- and, in turn, water and nutrients -- for your grass to grow.

Aerating is done using a piece of equipment called a lawn aerator. 

A lawn aerator punches holes through the grass and into the soil. 

"Plugs" of dirt are removed from the lawn, allowing moisture to enter and giving the grass the ability to penetrate deeper to strengthen the root base.

When To Aerate

Deciding when to aerate your lawn is determined by a number of factors, like:

• How far the lawn root system is penetrating the soil
• What the make up of your soil is (clay vs. sandy loam)
• How much thatch has accumulated

Those are some areas to look at when making the decision whether your lawn needs to be aerated or not.

A common test of whether your lawn needs to be aerated is to stick a screwdriver into a test area of the lawn. If the screwdriver slides into the lawn with ease then you do not need to use a lawn aerator. However, if the screwdriver seems to resist your efforts, lawn aeration is most likely necessary.   Source

Types Of Lawn Aerators

Aerators come in a variety of styles ranging from rather heavy gas-powered models (which can be rented from your local hardware store or home center) to pieces of equipment that are designed to be pulled behind a lawn tractor.

Truthfully, a walk-behind self-propelled lawn aerator is not really any more difficult to use than a self-propelled lawn mower -- as seen in this video.

There are a variety of other lawn tools and gadgets that can be used to aerate your lawn. The one you choose depends on the size of the job at hand. For example, you could purchase a hand-push aerator and strap-on aerating shoes with spikes protruding down to aerate by simply walking around your yard.

One of the simplest ways to aerate your lawn is to strap a set of aerator tire chains onto the rear tires of your lawn tractor or riding lawn mower. That way, you can mow and aerate all in one operation!

In the end, aerating your lawn is a rather simple task that will help make your lawn the envy of the neighborhood. Fortunately, it's a rather inexpensive project as well. Your lawn will thank you!

Thankfully, Rob at Cockeyed put a roll of Bounty paper towels to the test -- like no one else can. You see, Rob likes to measure things... and count things... and figure out how things work.

His little household experiment with a roll of paper towels reveals just how many spills one roll of Bounty paper towels can really absorb!

See the results...

I've been a fan of his website for a long time.

He's part prankster, part consumerist, and part researcher. Give him any topic and he gets to the bottom of it!

Rob Cockerham was even on 20/20 recently. Check it out:

Please do keep one thing in mind though: Skin cancer is no joke.

You and your friends can get a FREE skin cancer screening at a Dermatologist's office in your area!

If you haven't revised your suntanning procedures yet -- in search of safer alternatives for getting a tan -- now may be the time to do so.

Following are a few things to keep in mind the next time you think you want a tan, including the "safest" ways to get a tan... if you must.

We have to make one thing crystal clear: there is no such thing as a "safe" tan. By going out in the sun unprotected, you risk getting wrinkly early-aged skin, getting nasty, painful sunburns, getting skin cancer.  Source

 
#2  Tanning beds are not as safe as you might think, either. 

Indoor tanning before the age of 35 has been associated with a significant increase in the risk of melanoma ... Research shows 70% of indoor tanners are female, primarily 16 to 29 years old -- the age group that's particularly at risk for developing skin cancer. We especially hope women who are using or considering using tanning salons will think twice about partaking in this risky behavior.  Source

#3  Tanning pills are not recommended by the FDA.

Although canthaxanthin is approved by the FDA for use as a color additive in foods, where it is used in small amounts, its use in so-called tanning pills is not approved. Imported tanning pills containing canthaxanthin are subject to automatic detention as products containing unsafe color additives.  Source

#4  Sunless tanning is the best way to go.  

Sunless tanning products are generally regarded as safe alternatives to sunbathing. The FDA considers DHA safe when applied to your skin. Spray-on tanning or mist-on tanning from a salon or spa is typically applied to all parts of your body --  including your face --  to ensure an even color. This creates a potential for the product to get into and around your eyes, near your nostrils or onto your lips. The risks, if any, of inhaling or ingesting DHA are unknown, so close your eyes and hold your breath while the tanner is applied. You may also want to request or bring along protective devices, such as goggles or nose plugs.  Source

My Personal Tanning Advice

I like to play the occasional joke of walking into a tanning salon and announcing that I need a tan.
 
Okay, it's only funny if you are looking at me, because I already have dark skin.  My "announcement" usually leaves the person behind the counter searching for words and in a visible panic. 
 
Regardless of the fact that I was born with a ready-made tan, I still know a thing or two about tanning.  I spent many hours during my college years trying to explain to passersby that yes, black people get tans too... on purpose. 

• How To Get A (Relatively) Safe Tan
• Tanning Beds Are Just As Risky As Sun Exposure
• Experts Say There's No Such Thing As A Safe Tan
• Tanning Beds May Increase Skin Cancer Risk
• The Only Safe Tan
• Sunless Tanning: Baking Is Out, Faking Is In
• Are Tanning Beds Safe? Experts Say No
• No Tan Is A Safe Tan
• Tanning Myths: What's True? What's Hype? 
• Worth Repeating: No Such Thing As A Safe Tan
• Getting Burned By Tanning Beds

It's not that my legs are bad looking, but darn it, they are definitely not what I'd call long and tan.

Since I'm barely over 5 feet tall, I've had to accept that maybe my legs are never going to look long, tan and sexy.

Oh well. There are still a few things I can do to firm and tone my legs and keep them looking great.

If you want to firm & tone your legs and get sexy legs... fast, then try these tips!

Your best bet is to do squats for 3 minutes each evening for a week. If you really want a challenge hold a heavy object while you're doing them. This will help to exercise the muscles in your legs even more and possibly speed up your getting sexy legs faster.

#2  Walk up a slight incline.

This move works your butt, too! Do this for about 15 or 20 minutes each day and you'll have sexy legs in no time. (This one is my personal favorite, as I like to walk around my neighborhood and look for slight inclines, then walk up them. We have several here locally.)

#3  Try some high intensity cardio.

What this means is you want to be jogging up stairs, or taking a 25 minutes long boxing class for example. Instead of low intensity you want fast and hard intensity. The cool thing about this is that you also get your cardio workout at the same time.

#4  Do bleacher running.

Go somewhere where there are bleachers and run up them like steps. Then, come down in a slower fashion. Do this 3 times a week and it will tone your calves wonderfully! As your legs get used to it, you can also add weight by wearing a backpack -- which will build up your leg muscles even more.

#5  Do leg lifts.

This move tones and exercises your thighs. Lie down on your back, then raise your legs right up into the air. Do 3 sets of 20 leg lifts. You can increase the number as your thighs get sleeker.

#6  Jump!

That's right, jumping will help to give you toned, sexy legs too. Start out with your feet shoulder-width apart, then bend your hips a little towards the floor. Finally, lift your arms out from the rest of your body and jump as high as you can -- landing in a squat position with your arms lowered. Do this 12 times in a row. 

Trying any combination of these tips should give you beautiful sexy legs. (But don't forget the importance of eating a healthy diet as well -- which can also play a part into having lean, beautiful legs!)

More Ways To Get Sexy Legs Fast:

• VIDEO: 5 Leg Exercises For Lean, Sexy Legs
   
• Personal Trainers Share Their Best Leg Exercises
   
• VIDEO: Pilates For Sexy Legs In 8 Minutes
   
• 3-Part Series: How To Get Sexy Legs & A Tight Butt
   
• VIDEO: How To Do The Stationary Lunge For Sexy Butt & Legs
   
• How Trainers Get Sexy Legs
   
• VIDEO: Leg Exercises For Strong & Sexy Legs

This time, it was easier because I have added 2 new dusting tools to my arsenal of housecleaning gear. They are:

• a ceiling fan duster
   
• a mini-blind duster

See how I found the best dusters for cleaning ceiling fans and mini-blinds, and why I think these are 2 of the best dusting tools around. (Especially the ceiling fan duster!)...

When was the last time you dusted your mini-blinds? I mean REALLY?

I always do it right after I move into a new place. But then I get lazy. Or actually, I just forget about it.

Well, let me tell you, the longer you "forget about it", the worse that dust and grime gets! I'll be honest, after eagerly cleaning our blinds a couple times after we first moved into a home that we built several years ago... I only did it once or twice after that. And we lived in that home for 7 years. They still looked okay, but I'd rather have replaced those blinds than personally clean each slat -- which was the next step at that point. No flimsy blind cleaner is going to work on mini-blinds that haven't been cleaned in years!

In case you're wondering, my method of dusting the mini-blinds In the past was simply to use a regular feather duster. I would "close" the blinds, then brush haphazardly all across the surface of the closed blinds. Then, I would pull the cord all the way the other way, and dust the other side of the blinds that way.

But now, we're in a new house and I'm vowing to add "dusting the blinds" to my quarterly deep-cleaning rituals around the house. So far so good. We've been here one month, and I just removed a thin layer of dust from these 2-year old blinds. It feels good.

But it got me thinking... This house is 2 years old, and (oddly enough) someone only lived here for a period of 6 months during that time. So I doubt the blinds ever got dusted or cleaned before this. Now I'm wondering if every 2 years would be a reasonable timeframe for dusting mini-blinds.

Does anyone have any feedback or personal experience with this? How often do YOU dust your mini-blinds?

The Best Mini-Blind Duster

My new favorite tool for dusting the blinds is that oh-so-familiar mini-blind duster that I'm sure you've seen at home improvement stores.

I use this one, and I love it! It works REALLY well. I think this is why:

• it's extremelylightweight
• it's got 7 "arms" that wrap around the tops and bottoms of the slats
• each arm is extremely soft and won't scratch the blinds

And the bonus: it's cheap! At $3 to $4, you can afford to try this product to see if you're going to like it. Plus, it won't cost an arm and a leg to replace it whenever the dusting arms get full of dust.

TIP: To make this mini blind duster last longer, I use my nozzle-shaped vacuum attachment to clean the dusting arms whenever it seems they're leaving more dust behind than usual.

How To Use A Mini-Blind Duster

To make the task of dusting mini-blinds with this type of blind duster a bit easier, I do this to keep the blinds from getting "stuck" in the blind duster:  With my left hand, I hold the blinds loosely in place within the window frame while, at the same time, with my right hand I move right to left along that section of the blinds with one long swipe.

I dust each set of mini-blinds in 4 steps:

• Working from the top, I start to the left of the threads that hold the blinds together, and swipe the slats 3 or 4 at a time until I reach the bottom one.
   
• Then, I move to the right of those threads and swipe (again, from top to bottom) all the way to the NEXT set of threads that holds the blinds together.
   
• Repeat this with the next to the last set of threads.
   
• And finally, I work top to bottom dusting the rightmost side of the blinds.

Do you do it differently? I'd love to hear if there's a more time-saving way to dust mini-blinds!!! For example, I've never used any sprays or cleaners on my mini-blinds. Not even water. Is there a benefit to doing so? How often do you dust your mini-blinds?

Now, onto my all-time favorite way to clean all of the ceiling fan blades in the house...

In Search Of The Best Ceiling Fan Duster

I've been looking for quite awhile now for a ceiling fan duster that is actually capable of "grabbing and holding" dust -- rather than just "scooting" it off the fan blade and onto the floor below.

I really like the moleskin dusters -- simply for the fact that they're extremely soft (and they seem to "grab" even the lightest dust particles). But all the ones I've seen are simply long-handled straight and stiff dusters (like for shelves, knick-knacks, etc). Even though they are marketing these as ceiling fan dusters and they're found in the ceiling fan aisle at home improvement stores, I don't see the ease of using them to clean ceiling fans.

So I kept looking.

I wanted a ceiling fan duster that was soft (wouldn't scratch) and that wrapped around the ceiling fan blade a bit.

The most common ceiling fan duster I kept seeing was the oval-shaped ceiling fan brush. But it's made of prickly bristles -- similar to a toilet brush! The packaging says it's an "electromagnetic duster," but I'm not buying it. That phrase alone does not make for a great ceiling fan duster, in my opinion. Instead, it's a combination of things: the type of material, the shape, and the ability to hold onto dust.

So I just couldn't imagine how all of these oval ceiling fan brushes I was seeing would be able to do anything other than push the bigger pieces of dust off the edge of the fan blade and onto the floor! Plus, I felt confident that the bristles would leave tiny brush marks where they had touched the blade (or dust!) and where they hadn't. That was the biggest problem with this type of ceiling fan duster, as I saw it... not touching every part of the blade with a soft enough material to actually grab the dust.

It [this ceiling fan duster] doesn't hold that much dust and dirt, and instead causes it to fall to the ground in clumps. It also needed to be washed after doing just 2 fans because of it's limited capacity to hold dust. So, it was then soaking wet and needed a day or two dry out before it could be used again. Source

So I kept looking.

The Best Ceiling Fan Duster

Even though I had scoured the store shelves at both Lowe's and Home Depot for months, "the perfect ceiling fan duster" finally appeared at my local Home Depot one day.

It's similar to this microfiber ceiling fan duster. Also very similar to a microfiber dusting mitt that I've been using for baseboards and trim.

I've liked the material for picking up dust in those places, so I figured it should do a similar job on ceiling fans as well. I was right!

(By the way, the microfiber hand dusting mitt is also commonly marketed as a car washing mitt. We've used one to wash the car, and it does work well for that too.)

This specially-shaped ceiling fan duster that I found at Home Depot combines the best features from both of the above examples. Only this one is made just for dusting ceiling fans, because it's kind of L-shaped.

It's definitely the ultimate ceiling fan duster, in my opinion. Here's why:

• It's shaped such that it hugs the fan blade.
• It grabs the dust and traps it within its many soft "fingers".
• It's WASHABLE and therefore will last a long long time!.
• It fits on the end of any telescoping pole (we already had one for changing hard-to-reach lightbulbs).

The only downside: it's kind of expensive at $10 (with no pole). But it's sooooo worth it, if you ask me. Especially since it's washable. That alone makes it seems like a brand new ceiling fan duster every time you use it!

Have you used a different type of ceiling fan duster? Why do you like it, or not like it? I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts.

But before you spend a fortune on a new mattress, here's an interesting tip from ShopSmart Mag (June/July 2009):

If your mattress is 8 years old or older, it's probably time to get a new one, especially if you aren't sleeping as well as you used to. In a survey of 5,900 ConsumerReports.org subscribers who had bought a mattress within the last 5 years, nearly 75% said they slept better on the new mattress. Price didn't matter. Most were happy whether they chose top-of-the-line or bought a budget-friendly model. The secret to satisfying slumber shopping: Spend at least 10 minutes lying on each mattress before making your choice. 

That Advice Came In Handy...

For the past couple years, my wife and I have been suffering from inadequate sleep. We've been tossing and turning, waking up with aches and pains, and often just giving up only to go watch some late night infomercials.

With various bent springs and sadly sagging stuffing, the problem was pretty obvious. We had waited too long to replace our old mattress. The only problem was our budget wasn't going to allow us to spend $1,000 or more for a replacement mattress. Instead, we went looking for a sale and settled on a middle-of-the-road mattress to meet our needs.

Before we bought our new mattress, we did a lot of research. Following are some tips to help you make an educated selection when the time comes to replace your mattress...

Name brand mattress manufacturers won't accept a "returned" mattress. If you send it back after a few days, the store may be reselling it.

#2  The number of coils doesn't matter.

It's just a sales ploy. Instead, it's the gauge of the wire in your inner spring mattress that determines stiffness or springiness.

#3  Wool batting is naturally fire retardant and dust mite resistant.

Just make sure it isn't chemically treated, because that removes the natural oils that are the reason behind these characteristics.

#4  Not replacing the box spring defeats the purpose of buying a new mattress.

The two are designed as a matched set working together to support the load. Keeping the old one (or placing a sheet of plywood between them) prevents the set from working together. Besides,new flammability standards went into effect in 2007, so f ire safety standards may be compromised if you put a new mattress on an old box spring.

#5  If a store will negotiate the price, then they were overpriced to begin with.

The minimum price allowed is set by the manufacturer of the mattress. Most reputable large stores set their mattress prices at that level up front.

#6  You can save money buying on the Internet, but you need to do your research. 

You need to match specifications with a local store model in order to confirm it really will work for you before ordering. By doing it right, you can save quite bit of money.

#7  When you go mattress shopping, wear comfortable loose clothing.

If you could get away with wearing your pajamas, it would be ideal! The whole point is to match as closely as possible the conditions you normally sleep in. Also, take your favorite pillow with you as well. Making the experience seem "just like home" is the whole point when you're mattress shopping.

#8  Shop with an open mind.

As we age, our needs change. Just because a certain brand or model of mattress served you well in the past doesn't mean it will work for you in the future. You spend a 1/3 of your life in bed, so you should take the time to try different types of mattresses to make sure you find the perfect combination for you.

In our case, my wife and I found a suitable replacement mattress at a large discount store. It was their middle of the road model and is a vast improvement over our old mattress.

How To Recycle Your Old Mattress

Do remember to dispose of your old mattress properly.

Many stores include free removal of the old mattress set when they deliver the new one.

If a particular mattress store does not, then contact your local recycling center and find out where you can send your old mattress for recycling.

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